Last updated on April 13th, 2026 at 12:25 am
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You paint clear plastic RC car bodies by cleaning and prepping the Lexan first, then spraying light coats of polycarbonate paint on the inside of the body.
That part matters more than most beginners think. If the body is dirty, the trim lines are rough, or the paint goes on too heavy, the finish usually looks blotchy or peels later. Take a little time on cleaning, masking, and test-fitting before you spray, and the result comes out much cleaner.
Once you get the hang of it, painting a body is not nearly as hard as it looks. A simple color scheme, thin coats, and a steady hand will get you a sharp-looking shell that holds up well on the track or bashing around the yard.
What you need before you start
Before you paint, gather the basic supplies so you are not stopping halfway through the job. A clean setup makes the whole process smoother.
- Polycarbonate Lexan spray paint
- Clear spray paint made for polycarbonate Lexan
- Masking tape
- Marker for layout lines
- Knife or scissors for trimming
- Curved bi-scissors for smoother cuts
- Water and non-abrasive dish soap, such as Dawn
- Soft, lint-free cloth
- Paint stripper made for polycarbonate Lexan, if you need to remove old paint
- Safety goggles and a disposable respirator mask
If you want a broader look at shell fitment and body care, our RC body basics guide is a useful place to start.
Step-by-step process
1. Strip old paint if needed
If the body already has paint on it, use a chemical paint stripper made for polycarbonate Lexan. Leave it on for the time listed on the product instructions, which is typically 3 to 12 hours. Then wipe or scrape the paint off with a washcloth or sponge and dry the body with a cloth.
Read the product directions carefully before you begin. Safety matters here because you are working with a chemical stripper.
2. Trim the body before painting
If you are working with a new body, trim it to fit the chassis before any paint goes on. That way, you do not risk damaging a fresh paint job later.
Set the body on the chassis and check where it sits too high or rubs against the wheels. Trim those areas back a little at a time with scissors or a knife. Curved bi-scissors are especially helpful if you want smoother, more precise cuts.
If the edges end up jagged or rough, sand them down before you move on.
3. Wash and dry the body
Wash the body with water and a non-abrasive dish soap. Dawn works well for this. The goal is to remove dust, debris, and anything else that could ruin a smooth coat.
Dry it with a soft, lint-free cloth before painting.
4. Mark out the design
If you want a more complex design, draw it on the body with a permanent marker first. That gives you a simple blueprint for masking and paint placement.
If you are only repainting the body a single color, you can skip the layout step. Simple designs are easier to handle, especially on a first attempt.
5. Mask the areas that stay the first color
Cover the areas you do not want painted with the first color using masking tape. Press the tape down firmly so paint does not creep under the edges.
Work dark colors first and light colors later. That helps prevent darker shades from bleeding through lighter ones. When it is time to remove tape, cut it cleanly with scissors or a sharp knife instead of tearing it unevenly.
6. Spray the first coat
Use spray paint made for polycarbonate Lexan. Generic spray paint is not a good match for this kind of body and will not hold up the same way. It is also a bad idea to mix different spray paint brands, since that can leave you with splotchy or uneven color.
Paint in a well-ventilated area, preferably outdoors. Wear safety goggles and a disposable respirator mask. If you are working in a garage or shed, keep the doors and windows open.
Hold the can about 2 to 3 inches from the body and keep it moving as you spray. If you hold it in one spot too long, you are more likely to get blotches or heavy patches.
7. Add more coats and switch colors as needed
Most colors need about 2 to 3 coats to reach full coverage. A first coat can look pale, so do not worry if the body is not fully opaque right away.
Let each coat dry before adding the next one. Drying time depends on the brand and can take between 20 minutes and an hour. When the coat is ready, it usually changes from glossy to dull.
If you want to speed things up, you can use a hairdryer. Keep it moving and stay about 2 to 3 inches away from the body so you do not blow the paint around or spoil the finish.
When you move to a new color, remove the masking tape from the area that will be painted next and repeat the same spraying process. Keep working through the design until the whole body is painted.
8. Add decals and a clear coat
Once the final color has dried, apply decals if you want extra detail. Decals work well for designs that masking tape cannot easily create. Place them carefully so you do not smudge the finish.
For a glossy sheen and a little extra protection, spray a thin clear coat made for polycarbonate Lexan over the body. Let that last coat dry for about 30 minutes to an hour before handling the shell or putting it back on the car.
If you want to compare paint options before you buy, take a look at the 3 paints for RC car bodies.
How to tell if the paint job is coming out right
A good RC body paint job usually shows a few clear signs:
- The color builds evenly instead of looking patchy.
- The surface goes from glossy to dull as each coat dries.
- Masking lines stay crisp instead of fuzzy or jagged.
- No heavy runs or puddles appear in corners or low spots.
- Decals sit flat and do not lift at the edges.
If the body still looks pale after the first coat, that is normal. The color should deepen as you add more thin coats.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Trimming after painting instead of before
- Using regular spray paint instead of Lexan-safe paint
- Mixing paint brands in the same job
- Spraying too close and laying down a heavy coat
- Not letting each coat dry fully
- Skipping the wash and leaving dust or grease on the body
- Ripping masking tape off unevenly
- Painting in a space with poor ventilation
If you keep the coats light and patient, most of the common problems never show up in the first place.
Troubleshooting after the main steps
Blotchy or uneven color
This usually means the paint was sprayed too heavily in one area or the can was held too close. Use lighter passes next time and keep the can moving.
Paint looks rough or dusty
That can happen when the body was not washed well enough before painting, or when debris landed on the surface while it was drying. Clean prep and a dust-free work area help a lot.
Masking edges look messy
Press the tape down more firmly next time and cut it cleanly instead of tearing it. A sharp edge starts with a clean mask line.
Decals or paint start to peel
A thin clear coat helps lock everything in. Let the final layer dry fully before handling the body too much.
Paint dries too slowly
Drying depends on the brand, but a hairdryer can help if you keep it moving and do not blow hard on one spot.
Frequently asked questions
Can you use regular spray paint on clear RC car bodies?
It is better to use spray paint made for polycarbonate Lexan. Regular spray paint is not as reliable for this kind of body and can fade unevenly.
Should dark or light colors go on first?
Dark colors should go first, then light colors. That helps keep darker paint from showing through lighter areas.
How long should each coat dry?
Drying time depends on the brand, but it can take between 20 minutes and an hour. The coat is usually ready when it goes from glossy to dull.
Can a hairdryer help the paint dry faster?
Yes, as long as you keep it moving and stay about 2 to 3 inches from the body. Do not blast one area with heavy air.
Do decals go on before the clear coat?
Yes. Apply decals after the final color has dried, then finish with a thin clear coat if you want extra shine and protection.
Final thoughts
Painting a clear plastic RC car body is one of those jobs that looks harder than it really is. Once the body is cleaned, trimmed, masked, and sprayed in light coats, the rest is mostly patience.
If something goes wrong, it is usually fixable. You can strip the paint and start again, which makes the process a lot less stressful than most people expect. A careful prep job and the right Lexan-safe paint go a long way toward a clean finish.